Not happy with Lightroom’s sluggish performance on your computer? Here’s a helpful 15-minute video in which photographer and instructor Anthony Morganti shares a number of helpful tips for optimizing your Lightroom’s performance.
The tips are various settings you can adjust and tools you can run inside Lightroom, from Catalog Settings to Preferences and more. Since photographers have different workflows and needs, customizing how Lightroom runs can help make it run faster for your own purposes.
Here’s a quick breakdown of the main performance optimization tips discussed in-depth in the video:
#1. Build 1:1 Previews: Make Lightroom create a 1:1 preview of your photo files, trading extra disk space and slower importing for faster performance while working with your photos.
#2: Discard Previews: Have Lightroom automatically discard your 1:1 previews after a certain number of days to free up disk space.
#3: Preview Size and Quality: Make sure your preview size and quality and set to appropriate settings for your monitor.
#4: Camera Raw Cache Settings: Increase your cache size as large as you can from the default of 1GB.
#5: Use Graphics Professor: Try enabling or disabling the use of your graphics processor to see if that improves performance.
#6: Smart Previews: You can give up disk space and editing quality by using Smart Previews for faster performance.
#7: Optimize Catalog: Use the built-in optimization tool to keep things humming along over time.
Watch the video at the top of the post for a more detailed look at how you can make these adjustments and what they can do for you.
The video is episode #92 in Morganti’s helpful Lightroom Quick Tips video series. You can find his entire collection of videos on his YouTube channel.
(via Anthony Morganti via Fstoppers)
We’re all familiar with the fuzzy circles that bokeh creates usually behind our main subject, but this lesson is about creating bokeh in front of the subject. And that is what Mark Wallace is about to show us in the 6-minute video above. This episode of Adorama TV is about getting a kind of outdoor feel and adding depth to your indoor portraits.
You can use daylight or continuous light and an uncluttered background might be best. You will need 3 things:
1.) LED or Christmas lights
3.) Wide aperture lens
Frame your model in a loose composition, so that you have enough space on the sides to create the bokeh effects.
Use a wide aperture lens like f/1.4 or f/2 and shoot wide open, as you want the LED lights to go out of focus. The camera should be on manual settings for shutter speed as you don’t want the sensor to be fooled by the light coming in from the LEDs. Manual focus should be used, so that the camera does not focus on the LED lights as you wave them in front of the lens.
You can use white or colored lights depending upon the effect you are creating. A tripod is certainly useful but if you don’t have one you may still be able to get by, but it will be more difficult. When you are shooting at wide apertures like f/1.4 the depth of field is very shallow and even slight movement can make your subject out of focus. It will help to draw a line on the floor so that your model stays fixed in one spot. When you are on a tripod your model has already been focused, so you have to look only at the placement and position of the lights. If you are hand-holding you will have to look at 2 things simultaneously: model focus and light position.
Move the lights in front of the lens to get the best effect and remember not to overpower the face with too many or large soft blurs. The closer your light is to the lens the larger will be the bokeh.
Here are a few of the example photos captured by Wallace in the tutorial video above:
Another way to add front bokeh to a portrait is to spray some water drops onto a sheet of glass that you then shoot through.
“What lens should I buy?” It’s one of the most common gear questions that pops up in the PetaPixel inbox, and while there is no one-size-fits-all answer, photographer Peter McKinnon does a great job of explaining what’s out there and what you need to know to decide on your next lens in this informative video.
The video is titled, appropriately enough, “What LENS should YOU BUY?!”, and it tackles the problem in a very systematic way. First, Pete explains the three questions you need to ask yourself before making any lens purchase:
- Do I want a lens for photos or video?
- What’s my subject?
- What’s my budget?
Then he takes you, step by step, through basically all of your focal length options (explaining compression along the way), talks through aperture options, and dives into what lenses suit what styles of photography best.
The video is 14 minutes worth of advice that beginners in particular will benefit from greatly—a basic breakdown of what lenses are most commonly used for what style of photography, and which options are going to give you the best bang for your buck when you start out. It’s a great resource worth sharing with your favorite photography novice.
So check out the final video up top, and then give Peter’s rapidly-growing YouTube channel a follow if you like these kinds of tips and tutorials.
YouTuber Chris Chris captured the above video showing what happens when your camera’s frame rate is perfectly synced to the rotation speed of a helicopter’s rotor: the blades are frozen at the same angles in each frame, making it look like the helicopter is magically floating around with frozen rotor blades.
It’s interesting to see how well the helicopter rotor speed stays exactly the same through the takeoff process. We shared a similar, albeit much more blurry, video of this phenomenon back in 2012.
Photographers, especially wedding photographers, might be tempted to start playing around with video or even offering some video services alongside their still work. This short tutorial will cover some basic tips that will help you navigate the chasm between shooting photos and capturing video.
The video is the latest tutorial from Mango Street Lab, but since Daniel and Rachel aren’t videographers, they enlisted the help of their friends at White in Revery to take over and show you how its done.
You might remember White in Revery from their recent viral elopement video captured entirely on the iPhone 7, but this time around, they’re going to show you how they managed the transition from stills to video using DSLRs. In all, they cover six key pieces of this sometimes-confusing switch:
- Frame Rate – 24fps is cinematic, 30fps is like broadcast/TV, and 60fps is good for subtle slow motion. Use each appropriately.
- Shutter Speed – A good rule of thumb, make your shutter speed twice your frame rate. So 24fps = 1/48 shutter speed.
- Picture Profiles – Keep your picture profile neutral to preserve the most color and dynamic range for grading later.
- Focus & Aperture – Don’t go too shallow. Try to shoot between f/2.8 and f/5.6 for most scenarios so your subject isn’t drifting in and out of focus as you (or they) move.
- Sequences – Tell a story. Aim for three different perspectives, angles, or focal lengths per scene/shot.
- Stabilization – You can use tripods, monopods, or gimbals. Tripods are best for stable shots where your subject is doing the moving, monopods help keep things stable if you have to move, and gimbals will really up your cinematic game… if you can afford one.
And that’s it. They’re not ground-breaking tips or mind-blowing revelations about the art of filmmaking, but the 6 tips do cover 6 of the most common hangups that photographers run into when they switch from capturing photographs to shooting video.
Give the whole video a gander up top, and then check out more tutorials and demos from Mango Street Lab and White in Revery by following those links.
Comedian John Crist made this humorous 3-minute video poking fun of the “The Millennial Marriage Proposal,” in which a girlfriend being proposed to (played by Megan Batoon) is too focused on the resulting photos and videos to enjoy the moment.
“Because what’s the point of getting engaged if you don’t post it on Instagram?,” Crist says.
(via John Crist via DIYP)