Archivi categoria: athome

How to Develop and Push the ISO on Color Negative Film at Home

I finally did it! After sitting in my fridge for a few months, I managed to developed myself a roll of CineStill 800 pushed to 3200 ISO, and the results look great! The great thing: it’s actually pretty easy to develop pushed C-41 film at home.

If you don’t know what pushing film means, let me introduce this technique.

Basically, you purposely shoot a roll of film at a higher ISO than it’s intended for, in order to gain extra stops of light. This means that you underexpose your film, then compensate this lack of light by extending the developing time.

Why Would I Do This

If you are shooting in low light or need a faster shutter speed to freeze an action shot, this technique can be helpful.

Black & White film photographers are usually familiar with pushing film because most of them are processing their own film at home, and can adjust the developing time at their convenience.

On the other hand, pushing color negative film is not as common, simply because it requires manual development and most labs can’t (or won’t) do it because the machines they use are 100% automatic. It’s convenient for them because, when shot at box speed, all C-41 films require the same developing time regardless of their ISO rating.

But that’s not an issue anymore and, like B&W film, you can develop color film yourself too!

Before we get started, let me introduce our partner in crime: CineStill 800.

Initially, this was a film used to record motion picture, hence its legendary cinematic look from. The Brothers Wright later made this film usable in C-41 chemistry by removing a layer called “remjet”. This allows us (and labs) to develop it without ruining our chemicals.

It performs best when shot under tungsten lights (city lights) but you can also get great results in daylight by using an 85B filter to adjust the light temperature.

Another advantage of this film is that it can be pushed up to 3200 ISO, and that’s what interest us today.

These images were all shot at night when I was in Vienna for my birthday. I wanted to travel light so my tripod stayed at home and this was the perfect excuse to push CineStill to its limits. You may have guessed it already, but I used my Hasselblad Xpan and its loyal 45mm lens.

About the exposure. Usually, you want to expose for the shadows when shooting color film, but here it was impossible… there wasn’t enough light even at 3200 ISO. So instead, I exposed for the highlights and then added 1 or 2 stops when possible just to make sure that the darker areas wouldn’t be completely black.

Most of the photos were shot between f/4 or f/5.6 and 1/15 or 1/30 of a second.

Now, let’s talk about the home development process. I ordered a Tetenal Colortec C-41 kit that comes in the liquid version. It also exists in powder version, but I guess there are very similar in the end.

Basically, you get 3 solutions:

  • The Developer
  • The Bleach/Fixer (aka Blix)
  • The Stabilizer

Each of them has to be used at a specific temperature, which makes it slightly more challenging that developing B&W, but it’s not complicated at all.

On the instructions, you can read that development temperature should be either 30°C or 38°C. Today, we’ll go for the latter as this is the one suggested for pushing film. It says that developing time should be extended by 30 seconds for each stop (no need to extend the fixer or stabilizer time). Here, as the film was pushed by 2 stops, I should have added 1 extra minute on top of the 3 minutes 15 seconds recommended.

Thankfully, Paul from the Facebook group “CineStill Film Users” suggested adding 1 min 15 sec per stop to avoid having negatives too dark. I knew that my images would be very dark anyway, and was afraid to get too much color shifting by extending the developing time for too long, so I went for an average time and developed for 4 min 45 sec total.

The negatives still came out very dark, but I managed to get the grain contained and the colors represented accurately. Then I slightly increased the exposure in Lightroom by 0.5 or 1 stop just to bring back some details.

One last good point for CineStill is that it’s very easy to scan, and the colors look very good straight out of the scanner. That’s not the case with every color film, as you can see in this article where I show you how to correct color negatives scans.

This result are exciting to me. CineStill 800 is a fantastic film that helps to push the boundaries of color film photography in low light, and I will certainly reproduce this experience.

Also, just to be clear with you guys, by no means am I associated with or sponsored by CineStill for this article. I bought everything with my own money, like the grown up adult that I am ;) It’s just an honest opinion on a film that I admire for its characteristics.


About the author: Vincent Moschetti is an Ireland-based photographer who is in the middle of a year-long experiment where he’s shooting only film photography. You can find more of his work or follow along on this adventure by visiting his website or following him on Facebook and Instagram. This post was also published here.

Lighting Tips: How to Shoot Killer Product Photography at Home

We’re not entirely sure why, but product photography tutorials are coming hard and fast lately. So in case this DIY lightbox wasn’t good enough, and 360° product photography isn’t your thing, here’s a great tutorial that will show you how to capture killer reflective product shots on a sea of black.

The video tutorial was created by London-based photographer and cinematographer Tom Watts, and using the simple setup shown in the video he was able to capture a bunch of high-gloss product photos like this one:

A post shared by Tom Watts (@tomwattsdop) on

The setup is simple. First, Watts placed a glass table in front of a black backdrop, and added some black material underneath the glass to get a perfect reflecting surface. Then, he set up a big softbox as his key light, a fresnel kicker with some barn doors as a rim light, and a simple square “reflector” (read: cardboard cake base) on the other side for some fill.

You can see the whole setup in this screenshot from the video:

Using this, he’s able to get these product shots on all black with a great reflection to really make the final image pop. The results speak for themselves:

Check out the full tutorial up top to have the lighting setup explained step-by-step, and then subscribe to Watts’ YouTube channel for more videos like this one.

(via ISO 1200)

LAB-BOX Lets You Develop Your Film at Home Without a Darkroom

Developing your own 35mm or 120 film at home almost always requires a darkroom, but LAB-BOX wants to change all that. The new ‘multi-format daylight-loading film tank’ lets you develop your own film anywhere, even in bright sunlight if you’d like. No darkroom required.

Released on Kickstarter earlier today and already more than a third of the way to its funding goal, LAB-BOX is being marketed as the perfect tool for educators and film nerds alike. It’s a daylight loading developing station that allows you to process your own 120 and 135 film without the need to load your rolls in the dark.

This simple video shows you how the innovative contraption works:

As you can see, the most difficult part (and we’re using the term difficult liberally here) is making sure you properly load the film cartridge so you don’t accidentally waste a bunch of chemicals on film that was never spooled onto the reel.

Once you’ve mastered that bit, however, you’ll be able to use whatever developing process you like/have chemicals for.

The LAB-BOX can be purchased with either a 135 or 120 film loading “module” (or both), and the modular design consists of just a few parts that are easy to disassemble and clean as needed. Even put together, the whole box is highly portable—perfect for the classroom, your desk at home, or a backpack while you’re traveling.

Here’s a closer look at the LAB-BOX, how it works, and what it can do:

The LAB-BOX is currently seeking funding on Kickstarter, and if the first hour of its campaign is anything to judge by, it’s going to blow away its $76K funding goal.

There are still some super early bird Kickstarter deals available that will let you get your own LAB-BOX with either a 135 or 120 module for just $73 or both modules for just $95 (only 10 of those left as of this writing). But even when those go away, there are more discounts to be had if you act fast.

To learn more or pick up a LAB-BOX developing station for yourself, head over to the Kickstarter campaign by clicking here.

How to Process C-41 Color Negative Film at Home, From Start to Finish

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I know there are a few guides out there for home processing, some of which were instrumental in helping me get over my fears. All of these other guides seemed to be a little incomplete and that lack of detail made me wait longer than I should have before taking the plunge. In reality, it’s easy to do your film at home. Let me show you!

The Tank

The first thing you are going to need is one of these magical things:

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This is your ticket to daylight processing. No need for any darkness in your “darkroom” with one of these. The reels are convertible. In the small size they take 35mm film. Give one a twist and it extends to a size that takes 120 or 220 film. They fit on the central column as you can see in the picture.

So this one tank lets you do two 35mm rolls at once or one 120 or 220 roll. However, you can also process four sheets of 4×5 film at once in the tank if you remove both reels (you need to keep the central column to keep it light proof).

I bend them gently in half (emulsion side facing inwards) and hold the “tacos” together with a rubber band. I then arrange them around the central column.

Here is a 4×5 film “taco” and four of them arranged in the Paterson tank:

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The Chemicals

Look on an online camera shop for “C-41″. You will find they sell a three chemical powder kit called a “Press Kit”.

It may be by Jobo or Tetanol or something else but but if it is a three bath powder kit selling for around $30 then that’s the one!

You mix up the chemistry into three containers and each will be one litre when mixed. You need airtight containers which plastic containers are not (they breath), so I recommend glass.

A narrow neck will be a big help in keeping air out and a wide base will be a big help in not tipping them over when working. In fact, you could do a lot worse than the bottles I found in a discount store locally for a few dollars brand new:

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They came with some cheesy glass stoppers that were not airtight. I replaced them with some laboratory stoppers that are. You will notice that the glass is not brown or opaque. That hardly matters. I store them in boxes in a dark cupboard. Light, heat and oxygen are the enemies of your chemistry. If you can keep them airtight, cool and dark they will last longer than your nerve to keep using them! My current batch was mixed more than six months ago.

The Glassware

The next thing you need (in addition to a bathroom with a bath and sink) is a good thermometer (or two) and a good funnel. Don’t cheap out here. I must have spent close to $20 on decent lab quality thermometers and a good lab quality glass funnel. I also have two beakers that I found I didn’t need but they come in handy for holding the thermometers and funnel.

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C-41 chemistry is very temperature sensitive. The whole thing should take place at 39 degrees C plus or minus 1 degree. Of this the most important stage is the Development stage. The later stages of Blix and Stabilise are not as critical. This is where your good thermometers and bathtub come in. I chose thermometers that were long (for easy use and easy reading) and that were fast. You can test this in the shop. Squeeze the bulb and as long as you are not a vampire the temperature should start going up. Let go and it should come back down. The faster this happens the better. I found these “spirit” thermometers are pretty quick.

The funnel is necessary because the chemistry is re-usable. You will be pouring the chemistry back into the bottles and you will want to do it quickly. Pretty hard without a good funnel.

The App

LabTimer. You really want this app for your iPad or something similar. Go ahead and download it while you are reading this. It’s free. Go ahead and set it up with the following four timers:

  • Developer: 3:30
  • Blix: 6:30
  • Rinse: 3:00
  • Stabiliser: 1:30

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All downloaded and set up? We’re nearly ready! Go string up a line across the bathtub or shower stall and get some paper clips or metal office clips ready for when the film is done. It needs to be close to head height because a 36 exposure roll of 35mm film is pretty long.

The Procedure

Right, let’s soup some film!

Here’s an action shot taken during an actual processing run. Sorry for the crummy quality, anything done in the middle of a run has to be done in a limited space of time as we will cover in a minute:

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(That’s my wife’s Hello Kitty bubble bath, I’d like to point out.)

Here’s the decode to that picture: On the left is my iPad in a non-slip silicone case with LabTimer running. The Blix bottle is on the ledge there with very little chemistry in it because all that chemistry is in the Patterson tank with my roll of 120 Kodak Portra 800. The Developer bottle is back in the bath water keeping warm and has one of my thermometers leant against it telling me the temperature of the water bath. The Blix bottle has my funnel in it because I will be pouring back into it when the timer goes off.

Preview over.

Loading The Film

First step needs to be done IN THE DARK. I know, it’s a drag. After this step it’s all daylight, though so don’t fear. If you have a changing bag then use it. For the longest time I loaded my film in a room with no windows in the cupboard under a bedsheet at night. The room may not have been perfectly dark but the cupboard in the dark was pretty dark. Under the sheet it was even darker. Darkness is like security, it’s all about layers. Practice the film loading in the daylight with junk film or a roll you sacrifice for the purpose before you try it in the dark. There is a knack to it but it is pretty easy. For 35mm film make sure you cut off the “tongue” so you have a square edge. It will make life much simpler!

The reels twist and have a little ratcheting motion in them. What you need to do is feed the film into the outer edge of the spool at the start of the spiral and feed it in a few inches. After that, you simply twist the sides of the reel back and forth and it will draw the film in. When you get to the end of the roll you need to cut off the end (for 35mm) or detach the end from the backing paper (120 film). Keep feeding the film into the spool a few inches past where it is all in.

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Once the film is on the reel or reels put them on the central column inside the tank and install the inner funnel shaped lid and click it into place. I usually stick my little finger in the hole in the middle and make sure I can feel the central column before I go out into the light. The tank is light tight with the funnel lid on and central column inside. Nevertheless you can still pour liquids into and out of it. This is the genius part!

That’s it for darkness! Everything else is in the light.

Final Preparations

Proceed to your darkroo– er, bathroom. The rubber top lid of the tank should be somewhere where you can reach it. Now you are ready to get film wet. Once you get the film wet you are committed so make sure all is ready. Here is the checklist:

  1. Chemistry bottles are sitting in the bathtub in water of the right temperature. I usually heat the bath up about four degrees too warm and stick the bottles in as I’m first getting ready. When I have the film loaded in the tank and everything else ready it is usually close to the right temperature. If you need to fine tune just add a little hot or cold and stir it around well. You want a bath that mostly surrounds the bottles but isn’t so deep that your developing tank with film and fluid in it is going to try to float.
  2. Line and clips for hanging wet film is strung and ready.
  3. iPad in place with LabTimer open and all timers reset and ready.
  4. Funnel available as well as rubber top lid of for developing tank and in easy reach.

Time Critical Steps

Run the taps on your sink and adjust until the water running out of the tap is 39 degrees C or 40. When the temperature has stabilised put the tank under the tap and fill it almost full with the warm water. With the Press Kit chemistry the film should pre-soak for one minute at the temperature that will be used for developing. This gets rid of some of the anti-halation layer chemistry, softens the film and gets everything up to the right temperature.

After one minute dump the water. It may be all kinds of crazy colours so don’t be alarmed! It depends on the film brand.

Immediately next, start pouring the Developer chemistry into the Paterson tank. Fill it until you can see the fluid coming up through the funnel top. In other words, an inch or so from full. Too much chemistry in the tank won’t hurt but too little will leave some of your film undeveloped so don’t waste time measuring, just make it close to full.

Start the Developer Timer

Put on the top rubber lid and work the seal around the edge, rotating the tank as you do. Once you are sure the lid is fully on keep skooching the tank around in a circle until you see you have used up about 15 seconds of the time on the timer. Stick the tank in the bath water. At three minutes left you will pick up the tank for your first inversions. Here is how they go:

  1. Pick up the tank.
  2. As you are picking it up by the top get the other hand underneath so you have it top and bottom.
  3. Move it up in an arc and bring it down upside down as if you are trying to move all the fluid and contents from the bottom of the tank to the top.
  4. Reverse the motion bringing the tank back rightside up as if you were trying to move all the fluid and contents from the top of the tank to the bottom. This is one “inversion”
  5. Repeat the steps for a total of four inversions
  6. Put the tank back in the water

This “four inversions” exercise takes place at every thirty seconds and is essential to proper working of the chemistry with the film. Don’t skip it. And try to keep close to the right times. This is the tricky part because any housekeeping and so on you want to do during the process must fit into the gaps between one set of inversions and the next!

For example, here’s how I generally do the Developer stage:

  1. Pour chemicals into tank, start timer (3:30), fix lid, place tank in water
  2. First four inversions (3:00), tank back in water, place funnel in mouth of Developer bottle
  3. Second four inversions (2:30), third (2:00), fourth (1:30), fifth (1:00)
  4. Sixth inversion (0:30), remove rubber lid in preparation for pour, hurry to sink with rubber lid and rinse thoroughly then lay down ready for reuse
  5. Pour out Developer solution back into bottle (0:00)

Now some people will have you stress down to the second on these timings. As I said, you do want to get the inversions going pretty regularly and close to on time but if the total Developer time is 3:25 or 3:40 it isn’t going to make a huge difference. Nevertheless, do your best.

Here’s how I manage the transition from Developer to Blix: I try to start pouring the Developer back in the bottle very close to zero on the timer. You won’t be able to do it instantly since you are pouring close to a litre of fluid so just pour it as fast as you can without mess and don’t worry about the extra seconds.

Start the Blix Timer

When you have poured it all out pour the Blix in. Again, as fast as you can without mess you want to get the tank fairly full and then follow the same procedure as above with getting the lid sealed and hopefully in the water by fifteen seconds after you started the timer.

Here’s how I play the Blix stage:

  1. First four inversions come at (6:00). Put the tank back in the water and go run to the sink with the funnel and give it a good quick rinse and clean before putting it in the neck of the Blix bottle.
  2. Second set of inversions (5:30). Now you can put the stopper back in the Developer bottle and put it back in the water to keep warm.
  3. Third inversions (5:00). If you didn’t get any of the above housekeeping done yet finish it off now
  4. Inversions at 4:30, 4:00, 3:30, 3:00, 2:30, 2:00, 1:30, 1:00
  5. Last set of four inversions (0:30) and get the lid off and rinse it well. The Blix chemistry is somehow more of a pain than the Developer. It is more prone to leak past the lid and it takes a bit more rinsing to clean off of things. It also seems to generate a little pressure in the tank so I normally squeeze out a little air by pushing down on the centre of the rubber lid just before an inversion when Blix is in the tank. I find this leads to less fluid trying to leak out. Oh! Leave the tap running after you rinse the lid
  6. At the end of the time for Blix (0:00) pour the Blix back in the bottle and then take the tank to the sink and place it under a fast running tap. The water can be warm or cool.

Start the Rinse Timer

Let the fast running tap water fill the tank. Slosh it around as it is filling. When it is full dump all the water out in the sink shaking the tank as you empty it. Once empty immediately start filling again with the same sloshing motion. Keep doing this filling and emptying with a lot of motion until the Rinse timer goes off. The goal is to completely fill and completely empty the tank each time. This will get all the remaining chemistry off the film. When the timer finishes just dump the last tankful of water and turn off the tap.

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Start the Stabiliser Timer

The Stabiliser is the most relaxed of the chemicals. Pour it in and jiggle the tank for the first fifteen or twenty seconds then let it stand. Temperature doesn’t matter much at this stage so you don’t need to put it in the water. At the end of the time just pour it back in the Stabiliser bottle.

At this point I like to do a little final rinse with some distilled water. It just helps the film dry a little cleaner. I pour in a little distilled water and slosh it around and pour it out. I do this a few times with a small amount of water each time.

You are done! Feels good, doesn’t it?

Drying

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Take the reels out. One at a time pull the film gently off the reels and hang each with a clip from the line. You will need one or two clips at the top as well as one or two at the bottom. The clips at the bottom are weights because the film will want to curl around like a snake as it dries. The weights will keep it from running into other films and will help the water run off by keeping the film fairly straight.

When the film is dry you just cut it down and sleeve it.

Just a few notes about the drying stage. Try not to let anything touch the film whilst it is drying. It will be very soft and easily damaged at this stage. If anything should get onto the film panic! No, don’t panic. Get some distilled water right away and pour it liberally down the film. If you catch it right away the distilled water should wash off whatever got on the film without damaging it. Allow the film to dry again on its own. Don’t worry about the appearance of the film until it is dry. It is normal for it to look cloudy or uneven until it is dry.

Cleanup

Make sure you clean everything you used. If you rinse it well and dry it right away you shouldn’t need anything more than water to keep it all clean. Store it away from dust and it should be ready for next time.

How to Process C 41 Color Negative Film at Home, From Start to Finish filmrocks

Film rocks! A photo I self-processed at home

Congratulations! You’ve helped keep film photography alive!


About the author: Sam Agnew is a professional photographer based in Doha, Qatar. Visit his website here. This post was originally published here.

How to Process Your C-41 Film at Home

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After almost two years of shooting film nonstop and more than $1,000 worth of expenses on processing and prints, I needed to reconsider my budget and find a way of being able to shoot more and pay less. I thus began to process my C-41 rolls at home. It’s extremely easy to do and I‘ll show you today how to do it, step by step.

First off, this is what you‘ll need (after you incur these small first expenses, processing at home is almost for free):

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  • A film-developer tank (a lot of people trust Jobo Tanks, I got an AP because they are cheaper)
  • Scissors
  • A trash bag (or another nice-sized bag that doesn’t have any dust in it)
  • The film you want to process
  • Measuring tools
  • A funnel
  • Tetanal C-41 Rapid Kit (they come in liquid and powder form for 1 or 5 litres of working solution. I guess the liquid one is easier to work with but I don’t know since I only used the liquid one)
  • Chemistry bottles (I have plastic ones but I‘d rather go for 500ml glass bottles because they are heavier)
  • A thermometer
  • An aquarium heater
  • A timer (I used my cellphone, every cellphone has a timer)
  • A water bucket in which you can fit the three bottles and the development tank

Ok, first of all, you need to know that C-41 is a normed process. This means that all films, whichever ASA they are, take the same amount of time to process. This helps if you want to process two films at one go and they have different speeds.

There are different ways to process C-41. The standard is at 100°F, but this is too hot for me and pretty fast, there is the 113°F express process and the 86°F slower process. I will show you the 86°F way, because you can easily control this temperature: it is nice to handle and it is not too fast.

Second, the chemicals will weaken pretty fast. This means the more film you processed already in this solution, the more time it will take. But don‘t worry, each Tetanal pack has a manual in it with a nice chart and processing times.

Third, try to avoid useless air-contact with your chemicals. They will oxidate and go bad faster if you leave bottles open and so on. You can slow this process down if you get yourself a Tetenal Protectant Spray, which puts a film of gas (heavier than air, lighter than water) on top of your chemicals without affecting their ability to process.

Now, lets begin.

Mix your chemicals. I use 500ml working solution, which means I can keep the 1 liter kit for twice as long. Mix them according to the manual in the package and pour each part (CD for Color Developer, BX for Bleach/Fix and Stab for Stabilisator) into one bottle. Close it and label it accordingly. Put them into the water bucket. Also, put the thermometer and the aquarium heater into it and fill the bucket with warm water. It’s crucial that you keep control over the water’s temperature, because there is basically no tolerance in temperature for the process.

You’ll have to wait a little while until everything in the bucket is 86°F. After doing this a few times, you will likely know how warm it has to be and you will be able to guesstimate the exact temperature. You can speed up this process by adding hot water or adding cold water, but I like to just naturally heat up the water using the heater.

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Load your film into the development tank. You take the scissors, the film and the tank, put them into the trash bag, and then put the trash bag under your bed’s blanket. I only use the trash bag because I can trust that there is no dust in it. You do not need it, but better be safe than sorry. As you probably know, no light should get to the film. I won‘t explain the rest since there are tons of tutorials on this out there. After you’ve loaded up the film, put the tank into the water bath as well.

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We skip the part where you wait to get the right temperature. This can vary between minutes and an hour, depending on various factors. You will have your manual at your side, so you will always be able to check how long each part of the process will take.

First off, pour the CD into your tank. The time starts when you start pouring it. Close the tank and put the funnel in the bottle. Put the tank back into the water bath and just move it around there gently. You can rotate it a bit as well. Do this the entire time. This will first help you use all the chemicals, not only the parts next to your film. It will also help the water in the tank flow around and stay same temperature — your heater is of no use if you only heat up the still water around the heater while the rest cools off. About 10 seconds before time runs out, pour the CD back into its bottle, put the tank down, close the bottle, and put it back if you want to do a second roll later (or put it into storage).

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Pour in the BX and do the exact same thing as before. When you put the BX back into its bottle, you‘ll need warm, running water. Rinse the film for about 6 minutes. I normally proceed this way: fill the tank, inverse it 10 times, pour out the water and repeat. I normally do this 12 times, since it takes about 30 seconds each time. After this, it’s Stab time! No! No daggers, no knives. Sorry for that lame pun! Put the tank on a steady surface and pour in the Stab. Just leave it like this for about a minute. Stab foams so much, I never move it because I think there would just be more foam. After this minute, put the Stab back and go rinse the film again.

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Now you can open your tank and take a look. I now normally add some drops of wetting agent, but this is up to you. The booklet in the Tetanal kit says nothing about a final rinse and some people just hang the film to dry with the Stab foam still on it. I like it better with wetting agent.

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Open up the reel, take the start of your film (in the center), use a clamp (like the kind used for laundry), and hang it to dry. I normally hang two more clamps/clothespins at the bottom end to straighten the film.

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Now you can wash out all your processing stuff and really, really dry it. You do not want any calcium residue (due to hard water) in your tank, this could falsify the results for next time. If you want, you can blow-dry your negatives or just let them sit there for about two hours. After that, cut them, put them into sleeves, and press them for a few hours (for best results). At this point, you can also just go ahead and scan them if you need to.

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I know, this method is not the cleanest and not the most professional, but it turned out to suit my needs the best. What I found after a while was that you will need lotion for your hands — the water dehydrates your skin so much! I started to wear rubber gloves, which helps retain.

I hope this was a help to some of you, or that at least it helped you decide whether you want to take the next step or not. All in all, it is a great way to save money and to learn something about your film. And of course, it is a great excuse to spend a lot more time with photography.

Here are some examples of my home-processed films:

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P.S. One last little addition: I ended up doing about 12 rolls of film per 500ml solution. This almost doubles what is written in the booklet. So you do about 25 rolls with 1 liter of solution instead of 16.


About the author: Max Zulauf is a 22-year-old photographer based in Zurich, Switzerland. Visit his blog here. This post was original published here.